How to install

You'll need a pencil, measuring tape, square ruler, saw (whip or fret), and wedges or spacers.

For a polished look, lay laminate flooring parallel to natural light. This reduces the appearance of long seams between panels. In long, narrow rooms, lay planks lengthwise.

If your installation area is larger than 100 square meters, or spans multiple rooms, use profiles to separate the flooring sections.

Once the subfloor is prepared, lay down PE foil and underlayment for the next 5 to 10 rows of panels you'll be installing.

Before you start installing the panels, to avoid the last panels being too narrow (less than 2 inches or 50 millimeters), measure the room width and divide it by the panel width. If necessary, cut the first row to ensure the last row is more than 2 inches wide.
b) Begin in the left corner of the room and lay the first panel with the groove side (which needs to be cut off) facing the wall.
c) Maintain an expansion gap of 3/8 inches to 5/8 inches (10 to 15 millimeters) around the room's perimeter and against any fixed objects.
d) Use spacers or wedges to secure the first row.

Position the second panel with its tongue facing the groove of the first panel at an angle. Gently push in and lower the second panel to connect them. Repeat these steps to complete the first row.

Measure and cut the last panels of the first row. You can use the leftover pieces to start the second row, but each piece must be at least 12 inches (300 millimeters) long.

Use the same methods as you did for the first row to join the panels in the second row.

Tilt the panels together and position the tongues into the grooves of the previous row at an angle.

Gently push down on the panels until they're fully flat. Offset the joints in adjoining rows by at least 12 inches. Avoid using panels of the same length at the beginning of each row.

From the 4th row onward, use the same method as you did for the 2nd and 3rd rows, but work while standing on the already installed flooring.

a) Cut holes in floor panels around pipes, pillars, and posts. Remember to leave sufficient expansion gaps around all these obstacles.
b) In some cases, you may need to undercut door frames, kick bases, and counter bases to hide the panel's edge. Always maintain proper expansion gaps behind the undercut area.
c) If you encounter difficulties connecting new panels to previously laid ones in areas where lifting panels is impossible (e.g., beneath a door frame), use a chisel to carefully shave down the elevated portion of the groove. Be cautious not to remove too much material, as this can weaken the joint.
d) Apply a sufficient amount of glue to the modified groove until you see it squeeze out between the joint when you slide the panels together.
e) Wipe off any glue residue with a damp cloth and use strong adhesion tape to hold the joint tightly for at least 12 hours.

If the wall is not straight, adapt the panel to its contour by using a small piece (ideally) placed on top of the full panel. Use a pencil to mark the full panel for cutting, while considering enough space for the expansion gap.

Remove all spacers and install skirting boards and profiles. Do not fasten them directly to the laminate flooring. You can use a durable, elastic substance to seal any gaps.